Sporty blouses

 Looks like a knit polo, doesn't it?

SURPRISE

It is woven.

Those sneaky 1930s people.

I'm not even going to add buttons. I love a woven pullover.

I use these shirts for work - quilting cotton (Sew Classic from Joann) that is cheap and lasts well for about 2-3 years of constant washing and wearing and assault from glitter and cardboard boxes and so on.

I added width to the bottom of the yoke by splitting the yoke on either side of the center and adding a wedge. Since I did not have enough black fabric left over to recut the yoke (or collar, to which I added a little bit) I just stuck strips of fabric in there.

The added width makes the sleeves fit better (already had to make them quite a bit bigger around) and there is less pulling across the back. 

I have two black ones and one white one. The other white one was finished before I figured out the yoke problem even existed so it will just go for scraps.

An Ike-style jacket

 I made this trial version in a horrible itchy cheap wool blend. I don't even want to touch it.

But the price was right.

I'll probably make the final version in linen or denim, Or a nice tropical wool or gabardine if I can afford it.

Pattern from Eva Dress, one of the many companies out there taking out-of-copyright patterns and digitizing them or making print versions and offering them for sale. This is a printed pattern. The directions seem to be the usual minimal vintage style: just enough to go on with if you know what you are doing.

Yes, I write all over my repro patterns.

I made the sleeves longer and bigger around, and made the waistband longer and eliminated the gathering that should have happened at the bottom of the jacket. I don't have a huge bust, so I did not need to make any changes there.

I might make the final version a zip front but keep the nice button at the waistband. I'm also not too sure about the rounded points on the collar: I'm more used to pointy points.

I'll probably make the waist of the jacket a little bigger, so I can get the nice gathering at the bottom. Which I will turn into pleats, of course. The straps and buckles at the sides are a nice touch. I like that the cuffs, the straps, and the end of the waistband are all points. I might make a button flap for the pocket also. Or two pockets.

I saw a jacket like this in a movie, the Guernsey Potato something or other and liked it.

Return of Ramblings!/Edwardian Excitement!

 I was trying for a cheesy movie title: like "Death from Above" "Return of Death from Abov... you get the idea.

Anyway, I've cut WAY back on social media like Instagram (totally bailed on it) and I basically post once a month to Facebook. Pinterest is just an excuse to doomscroll. USE-less. (but I do keep a visual record of my pattern collection on there).

So why not breathe new life into this blog?

I do love sharing stuff with the wider world.

In the past, I've had a great deal of difficulty with photo management on this site. I can't imagine it is much better after all this time. So there will be more text and less pictures. You all know how to google, so you'll be fine, darlings. Just fine!

I decided, even though I don't go to events (my life post-pandemic is just the same as during the 'demic: home, work, grocery shopping) there is no reason why I cannot make random outfits Because They Induce The HAPPY. And we all (still) need some extra happy in our lives.

In other words, if you ask, "But where are you going to WEAR that?" I'll just stare blankly at you. Really, really blankly. Unnervingly like Wednesday Addams. Yep.

I started with Wearing History's #R112 Circa 1917 Combination Underwear & Chemise pattern for my chemise.

Then I went for Scroop's Rilla Edwardian corset (pattern #1703).

Then Truly Victorian's corset cover (pattern TVE02 (not really a success - too wide in the shoulders by far)).

Then their petticoat (TVE14 - a great pattern, and rather giggle-inducing in red and white windowpane seersucker fabric (what I had on hand)).

Then I splurged and bought Memry Shoes's wonderful Ruth boots (everyday working boots, 1915-1920).

I made a plain blouse from Silk and Thimbles' "Luella 1914-1915 Waist" pattern.

I even made a hat that resembles an attempt to contact extra-terrestrial life. (Repeated Originals' B00626). I will not wear this hat. Nope, but it was fun to make. I still giggle every time I see it.

The Fashion Archaeologist on Etsy is responsible for me losing my mind with two patterns (blouse and skirt): a tucked blouse, with fancy fancy lace, from History House Antique Patterns, the "1912 Ladies Fancy Batiste Blouse #1912-A-003" and really nice tailored skirt pattern "Edwardian Rose Antique Patterns #1911-A-023"

Then I made a shorter skirt and a simpler blouse from those same to FA patterns.

Why make still more obscure historical clothing?

Because I'm going to use the simpler versions of this Edwardian Excuse for Extravagance as my Halloween costume (even though it is not clear yet that we will be allowed to do that at work this year).

Because what is truly awesomely frightening? A marching, protesting female with an AGENDA (aka. a Suffragette).

It took me ages to decide on a slogan for my sash: I finally went with Deeds Not Words because it is universally applicable even today, and also it is from the more active (ie. window-smashing) side of the movement. But only students of the Votes For Women movement might catch that. Don't worry, I'll leave the bricks at home. 

I followed Susanna French's excellent tutorial for the sash and used my Cricut Joy to make the iron on vinyl letters.

How's that for a catch-up?

 

Advance Kitchen Jacket Pattern

Thank you, USDA, for producing CUTE FUNCTIONAL workwear patterns! 

So, it was 74 years ago: better late than never for a resounding thank you!

Here is a good blog post all about these patterns, and particularly this kitchen jacket I'll go on and on and on about in just a bit.

https://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2009/07/advance-4674-kitchen-jacket.html

I love buying patterns (my mom said I was in love with the potential of patterns and she was not wrong).

Sometimes, I find a pattern I just absolutely have to have. And it is not in my size. Not even remotely! But I buy it anyway. C'mon, you've done that too, haven't you?

This is a 32 bust. I am a 40. So, that's 8 inches difference. Seems insurmountable, but Threads to the rescue! 

Here is a link to the method I used.

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/01/making-sense-of-pattern-grading

And here is a picture of the original front bodice piece on top of my graded pattern piece.

The only thing I changed about my alteration was adding an additional 1/2 inch to the sleeve length. Usually, I add 1/2" above the elbow and 1" below the elbow. So, there you have it.

Because this grading method involves cutting along specifically placed vertical and horizontal lines, sometimes those lines go right through important stuff, like, say, the dots to make the shoulder flanges. So, I kind of made that part up. I think my flanges may be a bit wider than the originals were intended to be, but I found the finished jacket drooped off my shoulders a bit, so I took a bigger 'bite' of the flange. Perfect!

I even made the included shoulder pad pattern up and stuck those in. And put lipstick on for these photos. That's how much I love all you of. Finding the lipstick after a year of no lipstick was a bit of a hunt.

Anyway:

I made this in some 30% wool sportswear fabric purchased at the end of the season last year at Joann. 

I love love love love love this pattern.

I can raise my arm!

I can hug an invisible very skinny person!

Look at the cool shoulders!

I cannot get over the nifty surplice cuffs!

This jacket does not have any front fastenings, but it seems to stay in place just fine. I might add some decorative toggles or something. Have not decided yet.

Lada treadle cabinet and base

9/16/19

Quick micro videos showing the cabinet for my lovely Lada treadle sewing machine.

The nifty leaf/cover

The retaining chains. Why there is one for the wooden frame, I don't know.

Machine storage.

And now, the beautiful base!

Lada Tension Woes

9/10/19

As an earlier post mentioned, the upper tension assembly on my Lada treadle is not complete.
I made a video detailing my thoughts so far.
Including trying (failing) to swap in a Singer 15-30 faceplate.

If the embedded video does not work, here is a direct youtube link

Whole Lada Love

9/10/2019

Lada? Don't you mean Lotta?

Why, no. No I do not. I mean a fabulous vintage sewing machine by Lada. Made sometime after 1918, it is a lovely hunk of metal, with  Lada Sobĕslav Made in Czechoslovakia stuck on the front. Interesting that it might have been made for export? (Sobĕslav is the town where the Lada sewing machines were made.)

I know nothing about this machine. I have no manual, nothing via internet searches (I can tell you it is not a Lada 77. I can tell you it is awfully similar to a Singer 15-1 or 15-30).
It is also incomplete. Not much is left of the upper tension assembly, and there was no bobbin case with it. However - drumroll please - I took along a Singer class 15 case and it fit!
Despite the missing parts, it really really wants to sew. I managed a few stitches with my handheld upper tension (I will never have a job controlling the top thread tension. Not in this life or any foreseeable one).

I also managed to work out how the bobbin winder functions. Trying to wind a bobbin while 1) holding the modern class 15 bobbin on the spindle (modern ones are a bit loose) and 2) turning the balance wheel by hand was ... difficult.
I have ordered a replacement belt. It will make future tests easier.



But before any of the fun sewing-adjacent activities, I had to haul it home and figure out what I had.
It fit in the back of the SUV. (The seller's husband helped me load it up, and my husband helped me unload it). It spend about 24 hours in the garage, where I started by taking the machine out of the cabinet, and the cabinet off the legs.

That was when I noticed that one of the legs was on backwards. Because both legs, and the bit in the middle have an enchantingly industrial LADA welded in. But the LADA on the left leg faced in, not out.
So I started applying WD40 to the stubborn bolts, and took the base apart. Look at these cool bolts!

These are all metric bolts. 16mm for most of the base (one 14mm to make life interesting).
AND I discovered under the grime the LADA logos are in gold. And there was the barest trace of red paint on the bottom part of the base. I'm not one to try to restore stuff to original condition. I like the sense of age, history, and use an antique embodies. So I just cleaned off all the metal, greased the bolts, and stuck the whole thing together again. I wiped the base down with sewing machine oil. Boy, it looks good now!
At some point in the future, I will take the bearings for the treadle apart and re-grease them. I first need to believe that I can actually get the machine sewing before I spend huge amounts of time with it.
I will say that the treadle mechanism is in great shape: it treadles easily and coasts to a stop very slowly. It is also nearly silent.

Then it was time to apply some Howard's Restor-a-Finish to the cabinet and then some wax. Looks good. And  - there is a centimeter ruler inlaid in the cabinet!

Now, I was unable to get the machine completely out of the cabinet - the frame that holds the machine when it is folded into the cabinet, I could not remove. Because some hamhanded fool wrecked the grub screw for the lefthand bolt. It was not me. Repeated lashings of penetrating oil and various tools yielded no results. It is very close quarters in there. I do not want to further chew up the head. So, I'll worry about that later. I did remove the whole frame from the cabinet. Which meant I could carry all three components up to my sewing room. One. At. A Time. Huff. Puff. Gasp.

I plan on taking it apart more extensively and giving it a good clean, but my focus now is to solve the upper tension puzzle. I have a drive belt, various springs and tension disks, an entire (hopefully intact) very rusty 15-30 faceplate coming. I hope that these things will get me on my way to a properly tensioned upper thread.

I will post about the tension later.