Thank you, USDA, for producing CUTE FUNCTIONAL workwear patterns!
So, it was 74 years ago: better late than never for a resounding thank you!
Here is a good blog post all about these patterns, and particularly this kitchen jacket I'll go on and on and on about in just a bit.
https://www.unsungsewingpatterns.net/2009/07/advance-4674-kitchen-jacket.html
I love buying patterns (my mom said I was in love with the potential of patterns and she was not wrong).
Sometimes, I find a pattern I just absolutely have to have. And it is not in my size. Not even remotely! But I buy it anyway. C'mon, you've done that too, haven't you?
This is a 32 bust. I am a 40. So, that's 8 inches difference. Seems insurmountable, but Threads to the rescue!
Here is a link to the method I used.
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/01/making-sense-of-pattern-grading
And here is a picture of the original front bodice piece on top of my graded pattern piece.
The only thing I changed about my alteration was adding an additional 1/2 inch to the sleeve length. Usually, I add 1/2" above the elbow and 1" below the elbow. So, there you have it.
Because this grading method involves cutting along specifically placed vertical and horizontal lines, sometimes those lines go right through important stuff, like, say, the dots to make the shoulder flanges. So, I kind of made that part up. I think my flanges may be a bit wider than the originals were intended to be, but I found the finished jacket drooped off my shoulders a bit, so I took a bigger 'bite' of the flange. Perfect!
I even made the included shoulder pad pattern up and stuck those in. And put lipstick on for these photos. That's how much I love all you of. Finding the lipstick after a year of no lipstick was a bit of a hunt.
Anyway:
I made this in some 30% wool sportswear fabric purchased at the end of the season last year at Joann.
I love love love love love this pattern.
I can raise my arm!
I can hug an invisible very skinny person!
Look at the cool shoulders!
I cannot get over the nifty surplice cuffs!
This jacket does not have any front fastenings, but it seems to stay in place just fine. I might add some decorative toggles or something. Have not decided yet.
